Udine: A Taste of Authentic Italy

Piazza Giacomo Matteoti in Udine

Pretty much nobody has ever heard of Udine. And fewer still have actually visited. Even most Italians know little to nothing about the city.

The region it lies in, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, is the great unknown.

This is the last undiscovered frontier in the north of Italy. That's why we decided to spend a couple of years living in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. We really wanted to get to know the region, and Udine, together with Trieste, was one of the cities I most wanted to explore. 

So, what is Udine like?

Well, I never expected much, and Google seemed to only be able to show me hopeless Reddit threads about the Udine football (soccer) team, useless and impersonal AI answers, or websites like RometoRio and Booking.com. There was only one solution, I needed to spend time there and make up my own mind.

And I fell in love with Udine.

Udine is one of those places that surprises you. It doesn’t scream for attention like Rome or Venice, yet it has a quiet charm that lingers in your memory long after you leave. On my first visit, I remember stepping into Piazza della Libertà and feeling like I had stumbled into a Renaissance painting. The warm hues of the buildings, the gentle hum of conversations, and the scent of coffee drifting from a nearby café instantly won me over.

Of all the cities in Northern Italy, Udine is in my top five. If I had to choose one to live in, then Udine would be right at the top of my list. This is the type of city I really feel I could retire to and live happily ever after.

Why is Udine so Great?

Loggia del Lionello

Udine has a fascinating past, shaped by Venetian rule, enriched by Austrian influences, and rooted in deep Friulian traditions. 

And yet, Udine is distinctly its own. There’s a proud, independent spirit here that you won’t find in many other regions of Italy. You’ll hear the Friulano language spoken just as often as Italian. The locals are incredibly proud of their heritage, and they should be—this is a region with a rich literary, artistic, and architectural legacy.

What to See in Udine

Of all the outside influences, Venice’s imprint is dominant, especially in Piazza della Libertà, where the gorgeous Loggia del Lionello looks like it was plucked straight from the Grand Canal. The square has a lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings when locals gather at the cafes and restaurants lining the square.

Loggia del Lionello

I love Oratorio della Purità, a small but stunning chapel decorated with frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo. There’s something special about standing in front of a Tiepolo painting, knowing that you’re looking at a masterpiece created in the very place it was meant to be seen.

And then there’s the Mercato del Giovedì, the Thursday market. If you want to see Udine at its most vibrant, go there. The market is a feast for the senses—stalls overflowing with fresh produce, the scent of flowers mingling with that of cheese and cured meats, and vendors cheerfully chatting in a mix of Italian and Friulano. Last year, I bought a handwoven basket from an old craftsman who told me he had been making them since he was a boy. Every time I use it, I remember that morning in Udine. Souvenirs like that are priceless.

The view from Udine Castle

One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is the Castello di Udine, perched on a hill in the heart of the city. The walk-up is a bit of a workout, but trust me, it’s worth it. From the top, you get a breathtaking view of the red-tiled rooftops stretching towards the mountains. I love sitting up here with a gelato, watching the sun dip below the hills. This is what la dolce vita really feels like.”

Duomo di Udine

Another must-see is the Duomo di Udine, a stunning cathedral with a mix of Gothic and Baroque elements. Inside, you’ll find impressive frescoes and intricate sculptures that tell stories of centuries past. Just a short stroll away is the Oratorio della Purità, a small but stunning chapel decorated with frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo. There’s something special about standing in front of a Tiepolo painting, knowing that you’re looking at a masterpiece created in the very place it was meant to be seen.

For art lovers, the Museo Diocesano and Gallerie del Tiepolo offer an intimate look at Friulian art, including more works by Tiepolo. The museum is housed in a beautiful historic palace, adding to the experience.

Udine: Life In the Piazza

Piazza della Libertà

1. Piazza della Libertà

As mentioned earlier, Piazza della Libertà is the heart of Udine. It's an elegant and lively square surrounded by impressive historical buildings like the Loggia del Lionello, the Palazzo del Comune, and the Cathedral of Udine. The charming Fontana del Lionello at the center adds to the square’s beauty, and the porticoes create a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. It's the perfect spot to people-watch, relax, and admire the architecture.

Piazza San Giacomo Matteotti

2. Piazza San Giacomo Matteotti

Piazza Matteotti offers a lovely atmosphere with its mix of Renaissance and neoclassical buildings. There's a famous fountain with the statue of a woman, which symbolizes the city’s independence, and the surrounding cafes and shops make it a pleasant place to sit and enjoy the local scene, especially during the warmer months.

3. Piazza Duomo

Located near the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Piazza Duomo is an intimate square where you can fully appreciate the historic beauty of Udine. The cathedral, with its stunning facade and bell tower, stands as the centerpiece of the piazza. The square itself is small but has a quiet elegance.

Exploring Udine’s Old Town

Via Mercatovecchio

Beyond the grand piazzas and famous landmarks, Udine’s old town is a place to get lost in. Wandering its narrow, cobbled lanes and avenues lined with elegant, covered walkways is a joy. You’ll find yourself surrounded by elegant Venetian-style buildings, small artisan shops, and cozy cafés. There’s a certain timeless charm in the air, and every turn brings something new to discover. All without the crush of crowds that you'll get in Venice and Verona.

Via Mercatovecchio is one of the most atmospheric streets in the old town; it is lined with shopping arcades, historic palaces, and boutique stores. It’s the perfect place for a leisurely stroll and some serious retail therapy, stopping for a coffee or a pastry along the way.

Udine is a Food Lover’s Paradise

Osteria al Vecchio Stallo

If there’s one thing that makes me fall in love with a place, it’s the food. And Udine does not disappoint. The region of Friuli Venezia Giulia has a culinary tradition unlike any other in Italy, blending Italian, Austrian, and Slavic influences.

I still remember the first time I tasted frico, a crispy, golden cheese and potato dish that is pure comfort on a plate. It was at a small trattoria, where the owner, an elderly Friulian woman, told me with a wink that the secret to good frico is using Montasio cheese and “a lot of love.” And then, of course, there’s prosciutto di San Daniele, which is even better than the more famous Parma variety, in my opinion. Delicate, slightly sweet, and melt-in-your-mouth perfect, it pairs beautifully with a glass of Friulano wine.

Speaking of wine, Udine is surrounded by some of the best vineyards in Italy. If you have time, take a short drive to the Collio wine region. I once found myself in a tiny family-run winery where the owner insisted we try every single bottle they produced. I left with a slightly wobbly step and a case of wine. Thank goodness I wasn't driving, and I really recommend that you don't either. Rather, have someone drive who doesn't drink or go on an organized tour.

For a true taste of Udine’s rustic charm, dine at Osteria Al Vecchio Stallo. It certainly isn't anything fancy; it won't be winning any Michelin stars anytime soon, and that is what I love about the place. Instead, this historic and family-run osteria, once a stable, serves up hearty traditional Friulian dishes in a setting that feels like stepping back in time. I still remember the rich aroma of the jota, a traditional bean and sauerkraut soup, wafting through the air as I enjoyed a meal here on a cold winter evening. The walls, adorned with vintage photos and memorabilia, tell the story of a place that has been welcoming hungry travelers for generations.

Also give Osteria Al Cappello a try. One evening here, a family at the next table struck up a conversation; others joined in, and soon we were toasting to new friendships. That’s Udine for you—it has a way of making you feel like you belong, even if it’s your first time there.

One other restaurant you won't want to miss is Alla Ghiacciaia; its location on a canal is absolutely stunning, and the food doesn't disappoint either.

Alla Ghiacciaia

Sights Near Udine

One of the best things about Udine is its location—perfect for exploring the surrounding region.

Just 30 minutes away, you’ll find Cividale del Friuli, a charming medieval town with deep Lombard and Roman roots.  The Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) offers spectacular views over the Natisone River, and the town itself is filled with cozy wine bars and historical treasures.

For nature lovers, the Julian Alps are within easy reach. A drive through the stunning countryside will take you to Tarvisio, a beautiful alpine town perfect for hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. Nearby, the Fusine Lakes are an absolute must—crystalline waters surrounded by lush forests and towering peaks.

Love seaside towns? Then head to Grado, known as the “Sunny Island.” Its sandy beaches, charming old town, and excellent seafood make it a fantastic day trip.

Nearby Aquileia, once a major Roman city, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site with impressive ruins and an awe-inspiring basilica filled with ancient mosaics

A day trip to Palmanova is a step back in time. Just 20 minutes south, this incredible star-shaped fortress town was built by the Venetians in the 16th century, and it’s still perfectly preserved. It is rated one of the loveliest towns in Italy. Start in Piazza Grande, the heart of town, then wander the symmetrical streets and walk the old fortress walls. Stop for lunch at a trattoria to try local Friulian dishes before visiting the Civic Museum to learn about Palmanova’s fascinating history.  On the way back to Udine, why not visit a nearby winery? A glass of local Prosecco is the perfect way to end the day!

Getting to Udine

Udine is well-connected and easy to reach. If you’re coming from Venice, the distance is about 120 km (75 miles), and there are several ways to get there.

By Train: This is the most convenient option. Direct trains run frequently from Venezia Santa Lucia and Venezia Mestre stations to Udine, with a journey time of 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the type of train. High-speed and regional trains are both available.

By Car: If you prefer to drive, the trip takes around 1.5 hours via the A4 and A23 highways. The roads are excellent, and renting a car gives you the flexibility to explore nearby gems like Cividale del Friuli.