Vasto: The Hidden Gem of Italy's Adriatic Coast

via Adriatica

A friend of mine moved to Vasto in Abruzzo. Everyone always asks her, "Where is that? Why move there of all places?". She always answers, "Come and see for yourself. Then you'll understand." We decided to see for ourselves. So, me, my husband, and my son packed up our stuff and went south to spend much of last summer and autumn discovering Vasto and Abruzzo. 

What did we find? 

Well, the first day we arrived, my husband and I went to grab a takeout pizza. While waiting, we started chatting with another customer about the traditional seafood soup from Vasto, the brodetto alla vastese. Then the owner jumped into the conversation, and so did another five or six customers. Everyone had advice to share. It ended with us being invited to dinner and making lots of new friends. That was just an introduction to how wonderful and friendly the locals in Vasto are. it just got better and better.

So, what does Vasto offer?

Well, wonderful people, of course. But, it is also a beautiful coastal town, offering a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. There are stunning beaches, a delicious cuisine, and, this being Italy, plenty of historical landmarks. Vasto has pretty much something for everyone. So, if you're looking for a destination that's off the beaten path and full of authentic Italian charm, Vasto should definitely be on your list of places to visit.

Where to Stay in Vasto

When it comes to accommodation, Vasto has plenty of options to choose from. If you're looking for a charming hotel, I recommend the Hotel San Marco. It's located in the heart of the old town and features comfortable rooms with traditional decor. Over the years, Gianni and his family have really gotten better and better at making the whole experience of a stay here wonderful. This is always my go-to option for stays of up to a week, and every time I visit, I feel like I've come home. That feeling gets stronger with every visit.

If you're going to be in Vasto for longer, then Casa Angela is the best option. It's a lovely little apartment, with everything you need and right on the edge of the old town.

Another great option, if you are principally visiting on a beach vacation and want to be near the sea, is the Europa Hotel, which is located just a few minutes' walk from the beach. The hotel features comfortable rooms with all the amenities you could ever need; however, if you aren't here principally for the beach, I'd recommend rather going for one of the first two options. Why? Well, the main beach is a fair distance from the lovely old town area (more about that coming up), and it is really quiet in the evenings.

Must-See Attractions in Vasto, Italy

Old Town

First up is the Old Town, which is an amazing maze of narrow streets and alleyways with ancient buildings and monuments. Cobblestone pathways wind their way through centuries of history, each corner revealing a new tale to be discovered. The air is filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries, while the faint scent of the sea, drifting in from the nearby Adriatic, adds to the heady atmosphere. It's the Italy you've always imagined and it's an Italy you are guaranteed to fall in love with.

Every morning, my family and I would visit one of the many bars in the old town for our morning cappuccino and pastry before enjoying a walk along via Adriatica, joining the many others jogging, walking their dogs, or just strolling along, breathing in the fresh sea air. The view of the beach and sea far below is incredible; it never fails to leave me feeling inspired for the rest of the day.

In the summer evenings too, this stretch is hugely popular for the evening passeggiata when it feels like the entire town has dressed up in their Sunday best, either enjoying a walk with a gelato in hand or sipping an aperitivo at one of the many pavement cafes.

Early morning in the Vasto Old Town

What to See in the Vasto Old Town?

Explore the atmospheric alleys leading off Piazza Rossetti; they are packed full of fascinating artisan shops, cafes, and family-run restaurants serving authentic Abruzzese cuisine.

One of the highlights of the old town is the imposing Aragonese Castle, a medieval fortress that dominates the skyline. Built in the 15th century, the castle boasts gorgeous views of the surrounding coastline and serves as a reminder of Vasto's strategic importance throughout the centuries.

While you're exploring, check out the remnants of Roman baths and the ancient Amphitheater, each one tells its own story of the region's Roman legacy.

Beyond its architectural wonders, the old town is also a hub of cultural activity, with art galleries, museums, and theaters showcasing the talents of local artists and performers. 

The two top old town sights, though, are Palazzo d'Avalos and San Giuseppe Cathedral. Here's more about them both:

Palazzo d'Avalos

If you're a history buff, the Palazzo d'Avalos is a must-visit. This historic palace dates back to the 16th century and is located in the heart of the Old Town. The building now houses the Municipal Museum, which features a fascinating collection of archaeological artifacts, medieval and Renaissance art, and local history. You'll also get to explore the palace's magnificent courtyards and gardens (they reminded me a bit of the gardens and courtyards of the Villa Rufolo in Ravello), as well as the many rooms that are open to the public.

San Giuseppe Cathedral

San Giuseppe Cathedral

The San Giuseppe Cathedral is a beautiful Baroque church that was built in the 18th century. The façade is impressive with its intricate carvings and decorative elements. Step inside, and the interior of the cathedral is equally stunning, with its soaring ceilings, ornate altars, and beautiful stained-glass windows. The silence and coolness of the interior provide the perfect opportunity to connect with God in an atmosphere of total peace and tranquility.

Inside Vasto Cathedral

Beyond the Old Town

Punta Aderci Nature Reserve

Just a few kilometers from the town center, this stunning area covers over 200 hectares of rugged coastline and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. You can hike on several trails, enjoy stunning views of the Adriatic Sea, and chill on some of the most beautiful beaches in the region.

For bird enthusiasts, Punta Aderci is a paradise, as it serves as a crucial stopover for migratory birds. You might spot species like the Eurasian stone-curlew or the Kentish plover. The reserve's diverse habitats, including sandy dunes, rocky cliffs, and coastal meadows, support an array of wildlife and plant species, making it a haven for nature lovers.

If you're up for an adventure, the bike path running through the reserve offers a scenic route along the coast, perfect for cycling enthusiasts. There are also opportunities for snorkeling and kayaking in the crystal-clear waters.

Trabocchi Coast

You also have to check out the Trabocchi Coast. It's a unique stretch of coastline that runs through most of Abruzzo and into Molise, with traditional wooden fishing platforms called trabocchi. Many of these structures, which have been used by local fishermen for centuries, have been turned into restaurants, and the fish caught on the platforms are served in rustic shed-type structures. You can't really get fresher as the fish have traveled about 5 feet from sea to table. 

One of the best is the Trabocco Trimalcione; it's run by a couple, Mario and Amalia, and the whole experience is unforgettable. We went there just before sunset and lingered for hours over eight courses of seafood. Well, it was around eight courses; I kind of lost count after the first five courses and the first bottle of the local Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo wine were done. Although Trabocco Trimalcione can be expensive, the exceptional quality of the food, stunning location, and attentive service make it well worth the money. 

Vasto Marina

A view of the beach in Vasto Marina

Finally, if you're looking for some fun in the sun, head to Vasto Marina. This modern seaside resort is just a few kilometers from the Old Town, and you'll find a long and wide beach, hotels, restaurants, and bars, as well as a wide range of water sports and activities. The beach has free sections as well as the usual Italian-style pay sections filled with row after row of deckchairs.

There's a bus (the number one) that runs up and down from the old town to the beach; however, it is worth walking to the beach and getting the bus back as the walk (known as the Costa Contina) is all downhill and takes you through the "Garden of Vasto." It's the area where the city's fresh vegetables used to grow, and there are still many small vegetable gardens in the area. The walk is lovely, taking you through these gardens and offering spectacular views of the sea below and the old town on the hill above. That sound of water you'll hear as you walk is fresh water from Vasto's springs running down through the gardens.

Where to Eat 

Now, let's talk about the most important thing: food! Vasto is known for its delicious seafood dishes, which are made using fresh ingredients from the Adriatic Sea.

Trattoria del Pesce Fresco, in the heart of the old town is charming and the food is absolutely delicious.

Do try the Brodetto alla Vastese, the most famous of all local dishes, at Risto-Bar Histoniense. Book at least 48 hours before and let them know you will be ordering the brodetto, as they purchase the fish from local fishermen to order. I loved the experience. The restaurant was packed with locals, and when they learned we were from out of town, everyone wanted to know what we thought of the Brodetto and Vasto, too. We loved it. We'd discovered a new favorite dish, and we'd made so many new friends. The perfect evening.

If you're in the mood for pizza, you absolutely have to visit Ristorante Pizzeria l'Osteria del Palazzo. This restaurant is located in Palazzo d'Avalos and serves a range of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, as well as amazing pizzas. Its terrace offers stunning views of the sea and the old town, making it the perfect spot for a romantic dinner.

Trabocco Trimalcione, mentioned under the Trabocchi Section above, is an absolute must visit.

What to Eat

Brodetto alla Vastese

Brodetto di Pesce is a classic seafood stew/soup that's popular along the Adriatic coast. In Vasto, it's typically made with a mix of different kinds of fish, such as red mullet, sea bass, and scorpionfish, as well as shellfish. The stew is cooked with tomatoes, garlic, onions, and white wine, and served with crusty bread. Most Italians rate the Brodetto alla Vastese as Italy's number one seafood stew.

Spaghetti alla Chitarra

Spaghetti alla Chitarra is a traditional pasta dish that originated in the Abruzzo region, but is now popular throughout Italy. In Vasto, it's made with a special type of pasta that's made by pressing the dough through a wire-stringed instrument called a chitarra, which gives the pasta a square shape and a rough texture. The spaghetti is usually served with a rich tomato sauce made with fresh basil and grated Pecorino cheese.

Arrosticini

Arrosticini are small skewers of grilled lamb that are a popular street food in Vasto and the surrounding region. The lamb is marinated in olive oil, garlic, and rosemary before being grilled over hot coals until crispy and golden brown. Arrosticini are often served with roasted vegetables, such as peppers and eggplant, and a glass of local red wine.

Pizzelle

Pizzelle are a type of traditional Italian cookie that's often found in Vasto and the surrounding areas. The cookies are made using a special iron that imprints a pattern onto the dough, which is typically made with flour, sugar, eggs, and anise flavoring. Pizzelle can be enjoyed plain or filled with Nutella, jam, or other sweet fillings.

How to Get to Vasto

By car: Vasto is easily reachable by car from both north and south along the A14 motorway (Autostrada Adriatica). You can exit at Vasto Nord or Vasto Sud and follow the signs for Vasto Marina (the seaside resort) or Vasto Centro (the historical center). The distance from Rome is about 300 km (186 miles), from Naples about 200 km (124 miles), from Bari about 180 km (112 miles), and from Pescara about 70 km (43 miles).

By train: Vasto has a train station in Vasto Marina that is connected to major cities such as Rome, Naples, Bari, Pescara, Ancona, and Bologna by regional or intercity trains. From the station, you can take a bus or a taxi to reach Vasto Centro or other destinations in the area.

Your Questions about Vasto, Answered